Buon Viaggio, have a good trip and a very happy day in Le Marche!
A unique day trip: a visit to Mondavio & Corinaldo can be perfectly combined.
We suggest starting the day in Corinaldo (but of course any other order is fine too)
Morning: Corinaldo - One of the Most Beautiful Medieval Villages
We visit Corinaldo in the morning; after a 20-minute drive, we arrive at the medieval borgo più bello, atop the hill. Corinaldo is known as the birthplace of Maria Goretti, but also for more sights. Corinaldo has therefore not been named one of Italy's most beautiful villages for nothing. Its narrow streets, atmospheric squares and historical buildings make this village a true open-air museum.
An absolute must-see not to be missed is the Scalinata del Pozzo della Polenta. About in the middle of the 100-step staircase stands the main attraction of Corninaldo and that is the old well. This well was there when there were no stairs at all but only a hill. The legend that rests on this well has made it more famous.
According to legend, a farmer climbed the hill with a bag of maize meal on his back and rested exhausted at the well. To catch his breath, he put the sack on the edge. He was not paying attention and the sack fell into the well. In an attempt to recover the sack, he lowered himself into the well. Village gossip says no one has ever seen the man again, but that he sits at the bottom of the well eating polenta. With even the occasional pork sausage. It seems that sometimes you can still smell the smell of barbecue. According to the villagers then, eh?
The whole story is told every year during a grand village festival at the 3the Sunday of July recreated with costumes, old crafts, flag bearers and falconers, a historical pageant and swordsmen. Of course, polenta and roast sausages are on the menu.
Casa Scuretto
Another legend; in a side street of il Piaggia (stairs) you come across a rather curious house. A house with a facade and a house number. But then that's the only thing!
This is the house of Scuretto. A shoemaker, a simple man. His son emigrated to America to earn money. To later build a house in his native village of Corinaldo. Regularly, the son sent money to his father. Scuretto regularly drank the money in the tavern. At one point, his son became suspicious and asked for a photograph. Scuretto then had the facade built, complete with house number. And had himself photographed in front of it as if looking out of one of the windows. The house, or rather, the façade, is still there but not finished also because the money never came in again.
A young Saint is honoured.
Maria Goretti is revered as a saint. She was born just outside Corinaldo on 16 October 1890. She died at the age of 11 because Alessandro Serenelli fatally wounded her with 14 knife stitches. Serenelli wanted to assault and rape her. On her deathbed, (she eventually died 2 days later in hospital) Maria Goretti forgave her killer.
Alessandro Serenelli was sentenced to 30 years of hard labour. After serving his sentence, he asked forgiveness from the girl's mother in 1937. She too promptly gave it to him.
On 24 June 1950, Maria Goretti was canonised by Pope Pius X11 in St Peter's Square in Rome. This happened in the presence of Maria's mother as well as by her murderer. Which makes the event unique!
The church, called Santuario di Santa Maria Goretti is stunning to see. Highly recommended!
A walk along Corinaldo's city wall
You can take a walk along the entire city wall. The views are amazing from every spot. From the highest spots, on clear days you can even see as far as Monte Conero!
After walking around the whole village, it is time to find a terrace.
The best point is at the top of the stairs.
At Osteria de Scuretto we slid in for a delicious not-too-extensive lunch. We ordered a tagliere (drinks board). We were surprised with delicious local cheeses and meats, and a bottle of good wine.
Afternoon: Mondavio - A step back in time.
Mondavio; built atop a hill, is a beautifully preserved fortified town that immediately impresses with its imposing Rocca Roveresca. The fortress with its stone walkway, 'IL Rivellino', the entirely intact. The fortress walls and large towers, built in from 1482 to 1492, have come through the centuries flawlessly and intact. The fortress has never even been attacked. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the military architecture of the time. The drained moat houses large catapults and various instruments of torture. It was a good idea to visit Mondavio only in the afternoon, as the fort appeared to be open only in the afternoon. Inside the Donjon, you'll find the Museo di Rievocazione Storica, with historical weapons and a costumed wax museum, showing daily life from the 15the century comes to life.
After your visit to the castle, stroll through the atmospheric streets of Mondavio. Visit the church 'Chiesa di San Francesco', the teatro Apollo (a small style theatre with about 110 seats, which is usually closed, but the ticket seller at the tourist information office has a key and will gladly take you inside for a tour (is our experience ;-))
A tip from us: also walk behind the jewellery shop (Della Rovere Gioielli) to Claudia's cheese dairy. Her family has been making sheep and goat cheese on their agri-dairy farm for decades. Claudia has made her 'La Affinita Gustative' (Via Rossini 4), a small laboratory where she ages refined pecorino cheeses in hay, flowers and herbs, in an underground peat stone cave.
Terrace Tip : We enjoyed at Ristorante Al Giardino after from all the impressions of Corinaldo and Mondavio with a nice glass of vino Bianco and a small snack on the drinks board.